Clara Mokri / Special to The Chronicle
Below Big Sur, both the scenery and the vibes begin to mellow out. Once you’re south of Hearst Castle, Highway 1’s tight twists loosen up a bit and the horizons broaden out. The towns here are a bit less counterculture than Big Sur’s moody little burgs, and more-accessible beaches come with sand that is actually sandy and surf that is surfable. Californians call this stretch from Cambria to Santa Barbara the Central Coast: San Luis Obispo and Santa Barbara counties. The highway only traces the coastline about half the time here, but you won’t mind the inland digressions. Cruise the unsung wine country of Edna Valley and Arroyo Grande Valley, which are home to dozens of artisan and family-owned wineries just a few miles east of the highway. It’s easy to take westward side jaunts to some nearly secret coastal enclaves, such as Montaña de Oro in SLO, and the isolated, windswept Jalama Beach near Santa Barbara. The Central Coast has some culinary action going too. Tri tip is the beef cut of choice in these parts, and Santa Maria-style barbecue – entailing a piquant dry rub and grilling over local oak wood – is the way to savor it. Fresh seafood is abundant, of course: The Central Coast produces its own salmon, albacore and oysters. Don’t get too enamored with the chowder, though. Even though Pismo Beach still claims to be the "Clam Capital of the World," commercial harvesting of its famous clams ceased decades ago. Still, farm-to-table is a totally legit concept in this region, where foggy mornings nourish every vegetable you can name, plus arguably the state’s juiciest strawberries. Highway 1 doesn’t pass directly through many Central Coast vineyards, but viticulture is often just a short side trip off the highway. The generally cool climate produces some highly regarded chardonnays and pinot noirs, among other varietals. Santa Barbara Wine Country lies a bit more inland. While excursions on rolling country roads to any of them can be enjoyable, the side trips aren’t necessary — local vintners conveniently proffer their wares in any number of downtown settings. You’ll find individual and cooperative tasting rooms in Cambria, Morro Bay, San Luis Obispo, Pismo Beach, Arroyo Grande, Lompoc and Santa Barbara proper. If you don’t happen to have a designated driver, tour operators will shuttle you to some of the top local vineyards. NorCal and Big Sur certainly have beaches, but when you reach the sandy shores of Cayucos, the beaches become friendlier: more open (which can mean windy), more accessible, and with finer sand that’s less grating on bare feet. The water is chilly of course, but that's what wetsuits are for. In SLO County, the best beaches for surfing and splashing are at Cayucos, Morro Bay, and Pismo Beach. Then there’s Avila Beach, aka Cal Poly at the Shore, just a slender sliver and not much surf, but it’s snugly protected from chilly wind and hence a great swimming and sunning beach. Pismo Beach is actually three beaches. The northernmost stretch, home of the Pismo Pier, is for walking and swimming. So is the next stretch south, but you’ll share it with a steady stream of vehicles taking advantage of one of the state’s few stretches of 2WD drivable beach. Farther south, the hardpack beach and the undulating Oceano Dunes become a contiguous playground for ATVs and dune buggies. After Oceano, Highway 1 jogs inland for 65 miles. This stretch has its charms, mainly in the form of rolling hills through farm and ranch lands, and a flirtation with missile-famous Vandenberg Space Force Base. When you rejoin 101 and hit the coast again, the water’s warmer, the surf consistent, and the views huge: Santa Barbara Channel and the Channel Islands remain in sight all the way to the outskirts of Santa Barbara. Gaviota, Refugio, and El Capitan State Beaches all have day-use parking and beachside camping. In Santa Barbara, our route feels much more freeway than classic coast highway, but you’re also in one of the state’s most beautiful cities, and it merits an exit and an exploration. Follow beach-hugging Cabrillo Boulevard to visit the city’s harbor, wharf, very protected beach, and the artsy, foodie-haven Funk Zone. Fortify with a street taco and a microbrew and soak in the street scene. You’re definitely not in Big Sur anymore. —Robert Earle Howells
Whether you opt for the boardwalk that runs the length of Moonstone Beach on the bluffs above or stroll on the sand below, it’s easy to understand why this single mile is one of the most beloved stretches of coast in California. The views out to sea and up and down the coast are wonderful. There are tide pools to explore, driftwood to admire and at the south end, all manner of gulls, cormorants and egrets to watch in the mouth of Santa Rosa Creek. A string of popular motels line the inland side of Moonstone Beach Drive. For a slightly wilder oceanside walk, head a mile south to Fiscalini Ranch Preserve, where 8 miles of trails spread across coastal bluffs and into Monterey pine forests.
When you’ve had your fill of Hearst Castle’s studied opulence, go gawk at Nitt Witt Ridge. The late Art “Captain Nitt Witt” Beal spent decades creating his own multi-tiered hillside castle out of flotsam, jetsam, sea-polished stones and whatever else he came across — toilet lids, washer drums, advertising signs, abalone shells and beer cans by the hundreds. The result is a remarkable work of folk art that is a California Historical Landmark. The place recently sold, and tours have been discontinued; check with the Cambria Chamber of Commerce for the latest information. Or just drive by.
Cambria’s two aspects, coastal and arty, are different worlds that are both worth exploring.
Its coastal strand, Moonstone Beach, is a mile-long stretch of bluffs and beach flanked on the inland side by a succession of small inns and upscale motels. The bluffs are laced with trails, and several staircases lead down to the beach.
A quick inland turn from the highway puts you on Main Street with its collection of fine-art galleries and boutiques interspersed with coffeehouses, wine-tasting rooms and restaurants. Cambria’s artsiness doesn’t feel touristy; there’s an authenticity to the galleries and a farm-to-table earnestness at eateries like Linn’s, which has been proffering fresh pies for more than 40 years. There’s a nice dash of quirkiness, too: a local affinity for faux-Tudor half-timbered architecture, and a nonpareil work of folk-art in the form of Nit Witt Ridge.
The onetime dairy town of Harmony is now an artists’ haven that proudly proclaims itself the smallest town in California, population 18. You can watch artists at work in a couple of workshops, grab some homemade ice cream or taste wine at Harmony Cellars just up Harmony Valley Road from the little town. Just south of town and across the highway, some of Harmony’s old cattle range is now Harmony Headlands State Park, featuring a 4.5-mile lollipop loop trail out to a some rugged coastal bluffs.
As California coastal towns go, Cayucos is like flyover country — highway travelers tend to zip by on their way to Morro Bay or Hearst Castle. All the better for travelers who put on the brakes in this town, which distills so much into a small beachside footprint. Cayucos is truly on the beach — a broad sandy strand that stretches for miles, clear down to Morro Rock. The water is Central-Coast-cold but the surf is good and the beach is never crowded.
The heart of the town consists of a single street, Ocean Avenue, lined with mostly old-fashioned facades. Pretty much every other building houses an antique shop, one of which, called Remember When, hosts a bunch of vendors on three floors. In other words, if it’s not a beach day, there’s still plenty of cruising to do for collectibles and vintage goodies. Twice a year, the whole street is given over to the Cayucos Antique Street Faire. Don’t miss the historic, 950-foot Cayucos Pier, always worth a stroll to see what they’re catching, or to watch surfers and kiters cutting through the froth.
“Three stacks and a rock” isn’t great as far as tourism catchphrases go, especially since Morro Bay has so much more going for it than its obvious landmarks.
The town’s trio of 450-foot, curiously beloved smokestacks and the 576-foot dome of Morro Rock may dominate the skyline, but what defines Morro Bay is its relationship to the sea. It has long been, and still feels like, a fishing village. Watching the tos and fros of its endemic fishing boats is part of its charm, and there’s no shortage of harborside places for dining on or purchasing catches of the day. Once you start strolling here, you’ll quickly observe that a 3-mile-long sandspit frames the oceanfront and protects the harbor. That makes Morro Bay Estuary perfect for sea kayaking and stand-up paddleboarding. Rentals and guided tours are available, and you’ll almost certainly be shadowed by curious pinnipeds or sea otters.
The town itself stretches up from the estuary to Highway 1, an easily walkable grid with all manner of shops, galleries and eateries. At the south end of town, Morro Bay State Park is home to one of the prettiest campgrounds on the coast, as well as a golf course that’s a fair facsimile of Pebble Beach, minus the hefty greens fees.
The same qualities that put San Luis Obispo on so many lists of best places to live and happiest places on Earth also make it one of the coolest cities to visit on Highway 1.
It’s a vibrant college town (Cal Poly San Luis Obispo) with historical charm — Mission San Luis Obispo de Tolosa is smack dab in the center — that’s walkable, bikeable and enjoys perpetual great weather. If you’re not sipping java at a Scout Coffee sidewalk table, you’re dining by candlelight next to San Luis Obispo Creek, which snakes through the downtown core.
It’s also the cynosure of a burgeoning wine region, distinct from Paso Robles to the north. SLO’s wineries are arrayed south of town in the Edna Valley and Arroyo Grande Valley — gorgeous country worth a side journey. If that’s not possible, drop by Region, a tasting room in downtown SLO that represents 26 local wineries. SLO is a great home base for beaching — it’s 20 minutes to Pismo, Avila or Montaña de Oro. Plus there’s great hiking at the Irish Hills Preserve and the town’s signature summit, Bishop Peak.
Something of a bonus Big Sur, this stretch of SLO coast and mountain is well worth a side trip. Most visitors venture no farther than Spooner’s Cove, a tiny crescent of beach framed by rock formations and tide pools. But there’s also a campground, a dramatic hiking trail that traces the coast along wildflower-strewn bluffs, and a trail that reaches 1,347-foot Valencia Peak for a jaw-dropping view. There’s a bonus to the bonus, too: From the south end of Montaña de Oro, you can access another 3-plus miles of coast on PG&E’s Point Buchon Trail.
Avila Beach the town is the home of Avila Beach the beach, and that alone makes both Avilas worth a visit. The beach is small, but wonderfully protected by framing hills. It’s without question the nicest swimming beach in San Luis Obispo County.
The waterfront town, comprising just a few square blocks, has an old-fashioned feel, very pedestrian friendly, with the obligatory T-shirt shops, snack offerings, bike rentals, a few sit-down restaurants, a microbrewery and a top-notch coffeehouse, Kraken Coffee. The landmark town pier is currently getting a makeover, but there’s another pier north of town that’s the centerpiece of Port San Luis, Avila’s boating- and fishing-oriented neighbor, also ideal for kayaking and SUP. It’s the launching pad for a visit (hike, paddle or van tour) to the 1889 Point San Luis Lighthouse.
Also, Avila Valley is home to the Bob Jones Trail, a 3-mile path to the beach for hikers and bikers, as well as two mineral springs resorts. Avila Hot Springs is a modest day-use place with a huge, naturally headed soaking pool; Sycamore Mineral Springs is a lovely full-service spa and historic hotel tucked up against an oak-studded hillside.
It’s within Pismo Beach city limits, but locals would never call this neighborhood anything other than Shell Beach. Its most eye-catching aspect from the highway is Dinosaur Caves Park, which has a kids’ playground par excellence and an extensive grassy area overlooking wave-worn headlands. The caves themselves can be explored via kayak — rentals and guides available at Central Coast Kayaks. And the bluffs can be further explored on foot alongside Ocean Boulevard, which is also great for gawking at some stunning residential architecture.
One of the top recent good-news stories of the California coast is Pismo Preserve — 900 acres of oak-studded hills spared from development several years ago and opened to the public in 2020. Wonderfully sculpted trails weave into the landscape, wander into dense oak groves, and serve up vistas of serene mountainscapes and the Edna Valley, plus coastline stretching from Port San Luis to Point Sal. Don’t be fooled by its proximity to the highway — after two bends of the trail, all you hear is birdsong and hawk cries. The 11-mile network of trails is open to hikers, equestrians and mountain bikers.
As you drive south from Pismo Beach proper and skirt Pismo State Beach’s North Beach Campground, you reach a eucalyptus grove that may or may not be showing more orange and black than green in its high branches. From October to February, this grove attracts overwintering monarch butterflies by the thousands. Or tens of thousands — the numbers of endangered monarchs has surged upward the last couple of seasons, after years of disheartening decline. The dense clusters of gently fluttering butterflies make for a stunning sight. A short trail provides peeking perspective, while a kiosk houses docents and souvenirs. Tip: The trail also cuts through sand dunes to a lovely, vehicle-free stretch of Pismo Beach.
AG, as the locals call it, is well worth a visit, particularly for its historic core, known as the Village.
The heart of the Village is Branch Street, which has wine-tasting rooms at both ends that proffer the bounty of the Arroyo Grande Valley as well as other California wines. The few blocks in between are lined by buildings that date to the early 20th century, housing boutiques, two great coffeehouses — Mule Bakery and Cafe Andrieni — a microbrewery and several sit-down restaurants with outdoor dining. Word to the wise: Don’t miss Doc Burnstein’s Ice Cream Lab.
AG’s most charming site is the Swinging Bridge across tree-lined Arroyo Grande Creek. The cable-suspended footbridge (whose forebear dates to 1875) links Branch Street to grassy Heritage Square Park, with its museums, one-room schoolhouse and bandstand, where a brass band might just be offering up some musical Americana.
The ramp and parking area at the foot of Grand Avenue in Grover Beach provide the most convenient access to the hard-packed sand of Pismo Beach. To drive on said sand, purchase a day-use pass and proceed on the state park’s vehicle ramp to drive south. Ask about tides and conditions if you’re in a 2WD passenger vehicle. A large parking lot and a short boardwalk get you onto the northern, vehicle-free stretch of Pismo Beach, where you can walk 1.25 miles to Pismo Pier and downtown Pismo Beach. Or you can venture no farther than the parking lot and just relax at Fin’s Seafood, which has outdoor seating protected by glass from the generally chilly wind.
The state park ramp at the foot of Pier Avenue in Oceano is the gateway to Oceano Dunes State Vehicular Recreation Area, where ATVs and dune buggies can drive on Pismo Beach to access the thousands of acres of sand dunes open to off-road-vehicle use. Shops along Pier Avenue rent buggies and ATVs and provide safety equipment, directions and instruction to get you started. The Oceano Dunes Visitor Center near the ramp is also a great resource for all sorts of dune info, including an exhibit about the Dunites, a utopian sect that lived in the dunes in the 1920s and ’30s. The SVRA is also open to beach and dune camping, for which you’ll need four-wheel drive.
A freshwater lake in the middle of extensive sand dunes sounds preposterous, but that’s exactly what Oso Flaco is. A short, flat trail leads through willow thickets to a boardwalk that spans the lake, making a walk here a gentle experience. Beyond the lake, the boardwalk leads through the Oceano Dunes to a short trail that opens onto the beach. Technically Oso Flaco is in the Oceano Dunes SVRA, but the dunes and beach are off-limits to vehicles here, making this a serene alternative to the OHV hubbub just to the north. Oso Flaco also has decent bass and bluegill fishing, and it’s a favorite site for birders.
The old farm and rail town of Guadalupe seems frozen in time. Its two-story buildings are more than a century old, while fading advertisements on their brick facades hark back to some vague mid-century era. If it seems like family-run Mexican restaurants fill most of those old buildings today, well, that’s practically true, and you can’t go wrong pausing for a meal in any of them.
Guadalupe also makes much of its proximity to the Guadalupe-Nipomo Dunes, and even if you don’t venture to that isolated stretch of beach and dunes to the west, be sure to stop at the Dunes Center in the heart of town. There you’ll learn not only about the natural history of the dunes but also about a fascinating historical footnote known as the Lost City of DeMille. It was in the nearby dunes that Cecil B. DeMille filmed his 1923 silent epic “The Ten Commandments” — and afterward ordered his “City of the Pharaoh” set to be buried in the sand. Some of it has been excavated, and artifacts are on display in the Dunes Center. Viewing a large chunk of papier-mache sphinx seems somehow a quintessential California experience.
There’s pretty much one reason to make the five-minute detour off Highway 1 to tiny Casmalia, and that’s to chow down at the Hitching Post, one of the Central Coast’s most venerated barbecue destinations. The family-run roadhouse has been slow-cooking aged beef over local red oak wood since 1944 in a building that’s more than a century old. (Yes, there are a few other menu options, including ribs, chicken and seafood.) The wine list naturally favors local vintages. The restaurant’s wine and barbecue culture were featured in the 2003 film “Sideways,” though the actual filming took place at the Hitching Post 2, 34 miles away in Buellton.
Why Lompoc bills itself as the City of Art and Flowers is fairly apparent as you drive through and around town. Seemingly every downtown building is a giant canvas for local muralists, and if your timing is good, you’ll see broad fields brightly spangled with cultivated flowers arrayed nearby. The fields are constantly rotated, but your best bet is to explore just west of town. The flowers, which are grown for seed, are generally blaring their colors from April through September.
As for the murals, there are dozens — you can’t miss them, but they’re worth an appreciative stroll. Some depict local history, some honor nearby Vandenberg Space Force Base, and others are just plain whimsical.
Lompoc’s Santa Rita Hills are the westernmost aspect of Santa Barbara wine country, and wine tasting here couldn’t be more convenient. The Lompoc Wine Ghetto houses a cluster of urban wineries and tasting rooms in an old industrial complex just a block off Highway 1.
Lompoc is also a perfectly situated jumping-off spot for two side trips — west to Jalama Beach for camping, surfing and beach strolling — and east to La Purisima Mission State Historic Park. The 1820s mission is one of the prettiest and most extensively restored missions in the state.
Whether you’re making the twisting, 14-mile drive off Highway 1 to get there, navigating the big west-facing surf or walking your pooch along the isolated, windswept shoreline, Jalama has all the hallmarks of a “find.” Even though there’s a campground with seven simple cabins, a general store and a grill that serves “world-famous Jalama Burgers” (they merit the reputation), Jalama has a throwback, almost counterculture feel, as if you were huddled up against the wind in the middle of nowhere. It’s a favorite with surfers, kiters and radical stand-up paddlers, which means spectating is also one of Jalama’s many pleasures.
If you’re driving south, a few miles after Highway 1 rejoins U.S. 101, you emerge from a long stretch of rugged hill country to a view of the Santa Barbara Channel, an expansive vista broken only by the Channel Islands (and maybe the odd oil derrick).
Three state parks along this pre-Santa Barbara stretch of coast are home to three of the state’s most coveted beachside campgrounds, and each has day-use parking for beachgoers. First up is often-windy Gaviota State Beach, in the shadow of a tall Southern Pacific rail trestle. Nine miles down the highway, Refugio State Beach features a palm-lined cove for a bit of tropical ambience. Three miles later is El Capitan State Beach, which boasts tree-shaded campsites by the beach.
Nestled between the rugged Santa Ynez Mountains and the south-facing beaches of Santa Barbara Channel, Santa Barbara almost seems too good to be true. It’s a city that honors its glorious setting and heritage with a prevailing adherence to Mediterranean and Spanish Revival architecture, and every vista in every direction seems just perfect.
Not that Santa Barbara takes itself entirely seriously. For Highway 1 travelers, one of its signature attractions is the five-square-block district known as the Funk Zone. The onetime grimy, semi-industrial site is a concentrated collection of eateries, coffeehouses, wine-tasting rooms, shops and galleries, right at the foot of the city’s main drag, State Street.
A short stroll from there are the beach, Stearns Wharf and Santa Barbara Harbor — a pleasant combo of working fishing harbor and how-the-other-half-lives yacht slips. Rent a stand-up paddle board or kayak to nose around, or a bike to easily venture a bit farther on the oceanfront Cabrillo Bike Path.
There’s a whole inland world of Santa Barbara as well — lovely State Street, the Santa Barbara Mission and in the mountain foothills, the Santa Barbara Botanic Garden, devoted exclusively to California native plants.
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